DIY 100 hour candles

Rosie1

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That seems pretty cool. I don't know anything about the lamp oil, though, so I don't know if it would do ok mixing things (coloring, essential oils). And don't essential oils have some sort of a "shelf life"? Like, they can go rancid after a while. I think they usually do ok if you mix them up with alcohol or something? But not sure about the lamp oil. /newb
 
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sallyomally

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That seems pretty cool. I don't know anything about the lamp oil, though, so I don't know if it would do ok mixing things (coloring, essential oils). And don't essential oils have some sort of a "shelf life"? Like, they can go rancid after a while. I think they usually do ok if you mix them up with alcohol or something? But not sure about the lamp oil. /newb

Ah, OK. That makes sense. Thanks,Rosie.


Pinned it. lol

The website looks pretty interesting. I plan to visit later.
 

KLS52

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Will read later...must try and sleep now!
 

Dropkick

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Liquid Paraffin is actually also known as low sulfur Diesel/Kerosene/Jet Fuel/Lamp Oil or (following not recommended for lamp use due to possible additives) Stoddards Solvent/White Spirit/Mineral Spirit/Solvent Paint Thinner.
In the UK it's usually just known as Paraffin.

I usually just use vegetable oil in my homemade oil candles.
Olive oil is a great substitute, because while it doesn't burn as bright, when the wick is trimmed correctly it doesn't smudge at all (burns clean) and if it falls over it'll normally just go out (needs wick to burn).

You can also make a wick by putting a piece of cotton string through a twist of wire and setting it in the oil or by making a float out of a piece of pop can and putting the wick through a hole in it.
 

Donald1800

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Liquid Paraffin Candle Flame Problem

The problem is that the flame gradually reduces over time (<1 hr.) until it is out (this with a unit with a single 1/8" wick and an experimental quad 1/16" wick). I first thought that it was caused by a vacuum in the jar, so I punched a tiny hole in the lid. No improvement. I then converted the quad wick to a double wick - again no improvement. It acts like the fuel is not meeting the flame demand - fuel starvation! In ALL candle examples tested, the wick material from flame to end of wick is 2X the base to flame distance, or 8", with 4" of wick material running along the jar bottom.

I am using the newer Ball squat pint Mason Jar , both the 1/8"Fiberglass Wick material, and 1/16" Fiberglass Wick material in both double and quad wick configuration, and a 2" Glass Wick Tube, all combined for a jar base to bottom of flame height of exactly 4". I even punched a tiny hole in the lid near the wick tube to equalize the jar internal pressure/vacuum just like the commercial candles. I also have tied off the submerged ends of the wicks with nylon thread to prevent wick unraveling (this material is really bad about this).

What have I done wrong? Fuel draw length is less than 7", jar internal volume is vacuum/pressure equalized, and I am using good products for a high quality liquid paraffin candle. I need a consistent 1" flame and a ~80+ hr. burn time. How do I fix this problem?
 

Dropkick

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It sounds to me that your wick isn't drawing enough. Bad batch of wick material?

The flame doesn't actually burn the fluid, the fluid is heated by warmth generated by the flame and then the flame burns the fumes it gives off.

If the wick can't get warm enough for enough of the fluid to vaporize the flame will start to starve causing the wick to slowly stop drawing the fluid upwards and it will go out. Or if the wick doesn't draw enough of the fluid to sustain a large enough flame the same thing will happen.
 
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